Diane, A Shaded View on Fashion

Pure Haider Ackermann and the You Wear it Well 2 Paris screening

Dear Shaded Viewers,

I am soooo missing Sonny's photos here but....no back stage

Haider Ackermann

Haider Ackermann

Haider Ackermann

a href="http://dianepernet.typepad.com/photos/uncategorized/2008/02/28/haider8.jpg">
Haider Ackermann

Haider Ackermann

Haider Ackermann

The Paris screening of You Wear it Well 2 at ACADEMIE L'OREAL

After the screening my dinner for 6 turned into a dinner for 12 and when we arrived everyone already at the table took one side of the banquette to make room for the additional 6, it was quite a riot as they all fit where normally only 4 would be seated. The YSL party came next but I skipped it, as usual.

More fashion later but I have to get dressed and run to Chanel and first I wanted to show Dino Dinco how the screening went last night. Anyway , you will be happier with Sonny's photo's instead of mine.

Later,

Diane

Yesterday on Style.com

DINO DINCO : In case you were looking for them...

I found this in Elysian Park yesterday while conducting research for a photo project:

Talk about the kindness of strangers....

- Dino

You Wear iT WELL in Paris tonight

Please rsvp to the e mail on the invite and not to me. Thanks, Diane

Shame on You

Dear Shaded Viewers,

This season we finally see the return of Black and Asian models on the runway, bravo, but what do you think of a new magazine that is about to launch with a title that sounds like an open sore who dictates that no black models are to be booked for their jazz story. And what is the history of jazz....shame on you. May the editor in chief burn in hell.

Later,

Diane

tsumori Chisato by Sonny Vandevelde

All photos by Sonny Vandevelde

Viktor & Rolf by Sonny Vandevelde

Dear Shaded Viewers,

Sonny Vandevelde

All photos by Sonny Vandevelde

Day 4 Paris

Dear Shaded Viewers,

After a rather dismal first two shows of the day I was very happy to find myself seated at the Dries Van Noten show. Sonny's photos tomorrow.

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten

Toga

Toga had a lovely presentation at Rendez-Vous, the only problem was the photographer that was shooting the show kept stepping in to the frame and arranging the clothes making the model feel awkward and uncomfortable. Aside from that the collection was very well done.

Every element of the Ricardo Tischi collection was perfection from their hair to their toes. Beautiful and you will appreciate it more tomorrow when I show you Sonny's photos but for now...here are a few of mine.

Givenchy

Givenchy

Givenchy

Givenchy - Karen Binns and I were absolutely loving this show.

Before Bernhard's show I met up with Graham Tabor and Miguel Villalobos at Cafe Marley, I had not been there for years.

The wild world of Bernhard Willhelm

Bernhard Willhelm

Bernhard Willhelm

Bernhard Willhelm

More pics tomorrow from Sonny and I wish that I could have played the soundtrack for you.

After Bernhards we ran off to Da Mimmo's to meet Franca Soncini for dinner, here she is with Tilda her dog and Miguel Villalobos. Bernhard's show started 90 minutes late so Franca was waiting for us for more than one hour and still smiling.

Rick Owens by Sonny Vandevelde

all photos by Sonny Vandevelde

Paris Day 3

Dear Shaded Viewers,

Before going to Lutz today I stopped by the Flanders Fashion Institute to have a look at the 6 designers.

Mikio Sakabe and Heaven Tanudiredja

Heaven Tanudiredja

You saw Mikio's runway show last week in Milan. Heaven was commissioned by Dries Van Noten to do the jewelry for Dries' show. This however is his personal work.

Lutz

Lutz

Lutz

Issey Miyake

Issey Miyake

Issey Miyake

Issey Miyake

Issey Miyake

Ann Demeulemeester

Ann Demeulemeester

Ann Demeulemeester
More pics from Sonny later

Comme des Garcons

Amy Winehouse - Rehab was played on the soundtrack that opened the show of Comme des Garcons and it appeared that Amy was also this season's muse.

Comme des Garcons and Jun Takahashi the day after his strong and poetic show.

After the show I ran into Undercover's Jun Takahashi wearing that amazing blue jacket. It's funny because the way I know my friend Miguel Villalobos is indirectly through Undercover. One day Miguel was researching Jun Takahashi and was directed to my blog, he became a Shaded Viewer and a few months later after Raf Simons show he came up to me and introduced himself. He wanted to thank Jun for our friendship and also to tell him how much he loved his work and his show but... the words were never said.

Take Hirakawa and Jun Takahashi and Christian Astuguevieille and Rosa of Persuade and Graham Tabor

After Comme des Garcons we were going to go for a tea but then decided to have an early dinner at Cinq Mars and then check e mails.

The Cinq Mars and Graham Tabor and Miguel Villalobos

Later,

Diane

Cherry Vanilla with Tab Hunter and his boyfriend Alan at their home

DINO DINCO : FINGEREDLAND: FANTASY IS CALLING : 01 MARCH 08

- DINO

Westwood by Sonny Vandevelde

a href="http://dianepernet.typepad.com/photos/uncategorized/2008/02/26/westwood14.jpg">

all photos by Sonny Vandevelde

Maison Martin Margiela

At Jeremy Scott last night thank you anne de villepoix gallery

Claude Sabbah and I send today from anne de villepoix gallery

+46 party in Paris

Zoo Magazine No. 18

Bruno Pieters by Sonny Vandevelde

Dear Shaded Viewers,

Call me classic but I love it when you can just feel the beauty of the fabric and the precision of the cut. Bravo Bruno.

All photos by Sonny Vandevelde

Dior by Sonny Vandevelde

Dear Shaded Viewers,

href="http://dianepernet.typepad.com/photos/uncategorized/2008/02/25/dior5.jpg">

href="http://dianepernet.typepad.com/photos/uncategorized/2008/02/25/dior_8.jpg">

All photos by Sonny Vandevelde

Visit Sonny's site for more backstage at the shows

Undercover -Paris ay 2

Dear Shaded Viewers,

The poetic Undercover show

Miguel Villalobos and Graham Tabor

Paris Day 2 -Jeremy Scott's show

Dear Shaded Viewers,

Jeremy's finale and Claude Sabbah was interviewing everyone on why they Love Paris.

Gareth Pugh and his beautiful friend

The happy couples, Alban and Lotta and Graham and Rosa

Ali Mahdavi and Catherine Baba and Zaldy and Miguel Villalobos

Angelo Flaccavento and Sonny Vandevelde

Claude Sabbah and a Shaded Viewer

Sexy JJ Claude Sabbah and Roxanne Lowit

Later,

Diane

T Party by Zoltan Gerliczki

All photos by Zoltan Gerliczki

The Meaning of Luxury - Naoki Takizawa

Dear Shaded Viewers,

It was a pleasure this morning meeting Naoki Takizawa in his showroom. He talked me through his very 'luxury' collection. Instead of opting for a show this season Naoki wanted the press and buyers to be able to experience the beauty of his artisanal collection up close.

Since last season, Naoki has been reflecting on what interests him the most and how to express and find his own identity. He discovered what really interests him is the craft and the value and the importance of doing things by hand. Although traditional techniques and precise tailoring are essential to Naoki he has also spent his career researching innovative ways to develop different textiles.

THe black wrap coat is made entirely of nylon

Over the past few years there has been a great debate about whether luxury brands in fact have anything at all to do with real luxury. Naoki exposes real luxury by utilizing artisanal techniques combined with experimentation with innovative textiles. The garments are constructed and finished by hand and Naoki urges you to look at the inside construction as well as the outer finish of the garment. I was impressed by both his passion and his devotion to the craft and construction of each of the garments. Men's wear techniques are applied to a simple pleated dress creating it's volume by the use of inserted strips of horsehair. Horsehair is a traditional interfacing used in men's tailoring. He incorporates it both inside and outside of the garment.

A delicate feather motif is drawn by hand with a metal brush traditionally used in the ancient technique of kimono painting from Kyoto. One jacket made of the finest gauge of polyester is then layered with a transparent veil. In other words, the feathers are not painted on the surface of the garment but are drawn on the layer of fabric under the protective transparent veil.

Naoki explained how a nylon thermal thread was woven into the textile to produce warmth while keeping the fabric light. 80% of the fabrics for the collection have been developed for Naoki in Japan.

Later,

Diane

YWITW February 28th

 

Paris Day 1

Dear Shaded Viewers,

Cafe Flore for breakfast with Kelly Cutrone of Peoples Revolution and her beautiful man.

THen off to see the first collaboration with Eley Kishimoto and Cacharel, a beautiful success. I wanted to stop by for the cocktail but A F Vandervorst started so late that I missed that and the T Party.

I was the first one to arrive at Cacharel, they were still setting up as I misread the invite and the opening was at 19h30 and not from 10h30 this morning. Loved it. Congratulations to Eley Kishimoto.

THen off to Antoine Asseraf's to work on the program for You Wear it Well screened on THursday in Paris.

Graham Tabor and Miguel Villalobos at Antoine Asseraf's

You are going to have to wait for Sonny' s images of Bruno Pieters.

Manish Arora

Manish Arora

Manish Arora

Manish Arora

Manish Arora

Off to RIck Owens

Rick Owens

RIck Owens

RIck Owens

Next stop Bless

Bless

Bless

Bless

Bless

Waiting for A F Vandervorst

A F Vandervorst

You will have to wait forSonny's images of A F Vandervorst.

The show was so late that by the time I passed by the T party there was a huge line and we were told that we would have to wait at least 30 minutes for people to leave before we could get in. We left after 5 and had a late dinner instead.

Graham Tabor and Miguel Villalobos.

Later,

Diane

DINO DINCO : THE CDG MERCH IS IN AT + 1 213

After a bungled opening with the goods held hostage by US Customs, I'm happy to report that the racks of the first Comme des Garcons Guerrilla Store in the US are now flush with CDG merchandise. Behind an unmarked black gate in Downtown's Old Bank District, +1 213's stock reflects a sampling of present and past CDG collections like "Golden Boy," "Pink Panther," etc., as well as CDG Homme Plus, CDG CDG, CDG Shirt, Junya Watanabe, and pieces from Dover Street Market, along with all the scents, lotions, candles and incense pomades to make sure you smell pretty. Mmmm...how I love a man in tar....

http://www.guerrilla-store.com/plus1213/

Proud owners, Brett and Tak:

Thomas, The Keeper of the Gate:

- Dino

Maripolarama Perverse City - 1 March 5-8pm

White Club in Milan

Dear Shaded Viewers,

Breakfast at Hotel Bulgari before Robb and I went off to visit the Viktor and Rolf shop and Corso Como then we went to the fashion shows of 3 of the White Club designers and then a a visit to their showrooms before heading back to our respective countries.

Kristian Aadnevik and Kai Kuhne with his model in WHITE CLUB

Roksanda Ilincic and Mikio Sakabe

Jean Pierre Braganza

Klavers van Engelen

Steinunn

Mikio Sakabe

Later,

Diane

Paris : A/W 08-09 : DÉVASTÉE

http://devastee.free.fr/

Malloni

Dear Shaded Viewers,

Malloni's central theme was the idea of an androgynous, sensual woman that moves confidently across different atmospheres of life and action. Fabrics are weightless like a bird and substantial like a tweed.

Later,

Diane

Husam El Odeh at Valery Demure Showroom

Milan

Dear Shaded Viewers,

The night before I left for a speed trip to Milan I had a lovely dinner with Sandra Backlund. We talked about all the great things that are currently going on in her life.

Sandra Backlund

Next day I was off to Milan which has basically been un-documented due to the fact that there was no internet connection in my not very charming hotel. In fact if my lovely friend Franca Soncini had not invited Robb Young, Beniamino and I to join her and Giorgiana Ravizza for dinner at her home I think that Robb and I would have been quite depressed. Enough said, or rather not said , on that subject. There was the friendly giant that managed to get the internet to work for about one hour out of 48.

Dinner was lovely and the next day Beniamino Marini took me to the Trussardi Foundation so that I could see something beautiful and then he, Robb and I went to visit my hero, Mauro, of the plastic hairpins in his salon, les garcons de la rue. I cannot travel without them and I've never ma