RACHEL MARIE WALSH ON DAY 1 OF CIBELES MADRID FASHION WEEK

Dear Diane and Shaded Viewers,

Devota&Lomba got MFW (the one south of the Pyrenees) off to a fun start with a quirky, flirty collection for men and women. The girls were pure confection in candy pink striped party dresses.  Skirts were short and full with silk layering, a continuation of the cute shapes made popular by Luella and PPQ last season but updated with asymmetric shoulder straps. Other, less voluminous, dresses displayed origami-like peaks and folds. Were either broad and bell-like in silhouette or neat, pretty trenches. Huge patent totes made frames look even tinier while chunky, diagonally crossed ankle straps flattered ankles.

   

Ah, spring; when young Spanish men’s thoughts turn to…how to outshine their other halves? Devota&Lomba menswear is for the truly whimsical dresser. Models sported Hansel-style white clogs with tightly cut pastel jackets. The boys nails were painted sea green and their neon pink accessories continued the slightly metrosexual feel of the designs.

 

Devota&Lomba celebrate two decades of showing at Madrid Fashion Week this year. Luis Devota and Modesto Lomba began their creative collaboration in Vitoria in 1986 and together they received many impressive accolades for their work, including the Cristóbal Balenciaga prize for young designers in 1989 and the Pasarela Madrid award for the best women's collection of 1991. After his partner’s death in 1993, Lomba diversified the brand to include interior design, theatrical and architectural projects.

Fernando Lemoniez wants tanned Mary Quants walking the Plaza de Sol next year. The handsome Basque designer, who studied at Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture in the late 90s, sent out kohl-eyed, sleek bobbed beauties in vintage Biba style shift dresses. Silver daisies featured frequently throughout the show on bags,belts and in tiny, girly prints and Thankfully, Lemoniez knows that dressing all in one decade is far too costume party to be chic. He topped off his looks with 20s style bowler hats, all in playful colours so they fit the flower child vibe.

   

Agatha Ruiz de la Prada...what can I say? She knows her style and sticks to it and her legions of Rainbrow Brite loving fans couldn't be happier. She keeps her girls in hearts and flowers for another season and if it gives them something to look forward to after an increasingly gloomy 2008, why not? Photos by Juan Echeverría

   

Rachel Marie Walsh