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Tuesday, 31 March 2009

Lakme Fashion Week - Sabyasachi

Sabyasachi is one of the week’s main attractions at Lakme Fashion Week, and this season he certainly didn’t disappoint his fans. While many designers are busy reigning in their creative impulses, Sabyasachi was deliberately taking risks. He sent out what was, perhaps, his most convincing iteration of his belief in the enduring beauty of a historic, rural Indian aesthetic, seen through an unflinchingly modern lens. Sabyasachi resolved the visual contradictions between these two categories , pairing trousers stitched from transparent netting with more traditional tunics, or slightly abbreviated  folksy skirts that fell just below mid-calf, ending in a spray of tulle, reminiscent of Madonna circa 1984.

The idea of the 80’s has dominated catwalks around the world this season, but no one has approached the era in a way that approximates Sabyasachi’s unique take. His proposition of a sympathy between two eras for which different cultures feel nostalgia was surprising, but perhaps not so strange. After all, this is the man whose regal ideal presents a village beauty imbued with more grace than the richest maharani. Her power derives from a respect for her roots, from humility, from the kind of self-assurance that money can never buy, no matter the seductive promises of modernity. Perhaps few women could carry off such an authentic look, but, Sabyasachi made it easier for them this season, melding his affinity for the past with a grounding in the current moment. Regardless of how the more fashion-forward pieces sell, or whether  people find some of the pairings frumpy (a criticism that has dogged Marc Jacobs throughout his career, even as he has risen to become one of the world’s most influential designers) the values he represented on his runway are well-worth  paying attention to.

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Posted by Sameer Reddy at 03:36 PM | Permalink

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Comments

Lovely piece - you really hit the spot as to what makes Sabyasachi so special, that particular confidence that his clothes exude, without a hint of wedding bling!
Great pictures too!

Posted by: Ammu | Apr 1, 2009 7:53:33 PM

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