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Sunday, 30 September 2012

TOday in Paris



Angelo at Kenzo
Angelo Flaccavento at the Kenzo show this morning

Norwegian tv at Vika
VG TV Norwegian "Gjevert, Rut Helen" 

DP with Vika

Vika Gazinskaya showroom in Paris Meurice Hotel

Desi and friends
Desi Santiago and his friends at Nanashi

Nanashi...crowds trying to get in when we were leaving

Graham Miguel DP
Graham Tabor and Miguel Villalobos in their showroom 

1-100 6 rue Debelleyme door 47b52 stair a 3rd floor 29th to oct 3




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All right reserved by Shoji Fujii 
Images are exclusive to, clients and the copy right holders.

Prohibited to reproduce for any other website, blog, publication or printed matter.

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Glenn Martens S/S 13 presentation - Text and pictures by Valentin Jardinier--Almodovar


Dear shaded viewers,

To enjoy both the fashion week and this sunny, last Sunday of September, the ideal place was the chapelle expiatoire. As you entered, you were likely to pass by a model walking down the courtyard, while inside the chapel you found three of them standing on pedestals. Not before long, one would step down and either take another's place, exit the chapel or go downstairs behind a statue. Following her there, you discovered there was a gallery underneath the chapel, a crypt she now occupied with another girl. Eventually a new one arrived from yet another place…


All day, every three minutes, a model came from backstage and walked by the lateral gallery to access the crypt. Glenn Martens' clever and beautiful presentation let us take the time to admire both the architecture and his clothes. 60 looks or so, different combinations of the collection's pieces, kept the presentation fresh even if you stayed to enjoy the location, the scent of the white roses, and a talk with your friends.


Built upon the site where Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette were first buried, the chapelle expiatoire serves to commemorate the 21 years they lied there before being moved to the basilique Saint-Denis. The model seen above in the crypt stands in front of the exact location of Louis XVI's former grave. The statue in the picture below represents Marie-Antoinette supported by Religion.


More later,


Glenn 1

Location for Glenn

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Balmung Showroom - Text & Images by Aisling Connell




Dear Shaded Viewers,

Images of sand and stones have been graphically chopped, distorted and transfer printed onto the Balmung spring/summer collection. A futuristic, unisex range featuring lots of sheer and lots of gold. Faux leather t-shirts are oversized with raw edges and jackets are structured with thick padding. Accessories are one of Balmung's strengths. Statement clutch bags made from pearlized fabric unzip and unfold to reveal unique, angular cutting. Most of the samples on display in the Paris showroom were actually made by the designer himself, skills which have helped emulate his true vision.



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Backstage with Sonny Vandevelde - Jean Paul Gaultier




All photos by Sonny Vandevelde 


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Le Moine Tricote at the Designers Apartment - by Aisling Connell




Dear Shaded Viewers,

Alice Lemoine began her career as a knitwear designer working for Rick Owens, it was here that she was encouraged to renounce her knitting machine and work solely by hand. She furthered this skill in the creation of her partially eponymous label, Le Moine Tricote, which is now in its fourth season. The entire production is hand knit in her atelier in Paris.

The young designer described how she works solely through intuition and doesn't extract inspiration from a specific source or theme. Each season she orders a vast selection of yarns in colours and textures that appeal to her. She then experiments with different techniques until she achieves something she is happy with. Only then will she move onto the body and figure out the shapes and silhouettes that will form the garments. Le Moine Tricote literally translates to English as "The Monk Knitting", and with such an instinctive, ritualistic method of working, it is a very fitting description of the brand.

Knitted elastic detail
Alice Lemoine and Diane
One of the garments in the Spring Summer collection.
Images of the pieces laid out flat.

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For SS13 On|Off brings a new brand initiative, they filmed three catwalk shows in a secret location in London and released 1x online show within the NY Schedule: Come For Breakfast and two within Paris schedule: Lea Peckre and Daniel Palillo.

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The New York Film Festival gives us its first masterpiece.

Dear Shaded Viewers,

From the opening titles of red on a white screen I knew that I was about to be told a story as only Paulo and Vittorio Taviani could tell it. CAESAR MUST DIE is set in the theater in Rome's Rebibbia Prison. A performance of Shakespeare’s Julius Caesar has just ended amidst much applause.  The lights dim on the actors and they become prisoners once again as they are accompanied back to their cells. The story then takes us back six months to the audition process which we watch as the inmate-actors identify with their characters in ways specific to their diverse dialects, origins and crimes. We meet them and thier crimes head on. The film ends as the actor playing 'Cassius' one of the main characters who has been in prison many turns and looks into the camera and tells us, “Since I have known art, this cell has turned into a prison.” This is filmmaking as only The New York Film Festival can deliver. Just a note, I was first introduced to the work of the Taviani brothers in 1977 at NYFF's screening of Padre Padrone. This is a festival that clearly loves film. They have created a wonderful family.




Paulo and Vittorio Taviani

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Thomsen SS/13 - Text & Images by Aisling Connell




Dear Shaded Viewers,

I was intrigued when I realised that the Thomsen presentation was taking place in Nanashi, the trendy Japanese restaurant on rue Charlot where the ASVOFF team have been spending many lunchtimes over the past week. I was further intrigued by the invitation, a CD with a single music track on it(a catchy tune too, listen to it below).

Séverin & La Chorale Thomsen- Track 01


For the presentation we were led down a spiral staircase to an intimate underground bar, a small stage was set up in an alcove. Models filed out and formed a choir and a performance of the song from the invitation ensued. The atmosphere was fantastic. The choir not only sang, they danced too, and all of the onlookers couldn't help but join in. During the performance, models moved around and swapped places so that we could get a good look at the collection.



The young designer, Alix Thomsen, told me that her inspiration was drawn from many sources, from tribal Africa to British fashion in the 1940's. Prints, pinstripes and broderie anglaise gave a distinctive vintage feel to the collection, while the styling kept everything youthful and fun.




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Backstage with Sonny Vandevelde at Viktor & ROlf



All photos by Sonny Vandevelde

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