Monday, 09 December 2013
MUTATE AW13 / DIEGO ZÚÑIGA
[ M U T A T E . AW13 ]
The homonymous firm of the Mexican designer returns this Fall/Winter 2013 with MUTATE. The starting point is the beetle, an insect that throughout history has been an inspiration for industrial design, architecture and the military world. With eight all-black looks, MUTATE is characterized by oversize pieces, tailored quality and sporty touches. It surprises us with dynamic and original cuts, mesh details, and for the first time in the brand’s history there is a couple of functional accessories (cap and backpack) to create an outfit that reflects the concept perfectly. The collection? Wide-cut blazers with relaxed lapels, sweaters with wide sleeves, pants with big cargo-like pockets, and short wide pants. The textures reflect inspiration and are mixed with the designer’s characteristic black-over-black detail. The fortress, intellect, routine, and strength of the contemporary man is what emerges from this proposal from Zúñiga.
Make up:Ossiel Ramos
Model: Model: Frederik Tölke @ BANG! MANAGEMENT
Shoes: @ Feminine and Masculine
Thursday, 08 March 2012
Super 8 series - interview with Jean-Jacques Picart
Super 8 has driven all around Paris during fashion week with the special Intersection + Honda car customized Eley Kishimoto (CRZ Hybrid) to interview some fashion protagonists on how can be conciliated a radical fashion vision and commercial success.
This intervew with fashion & luxury consultant Jean Jacques Picart that happened just before the Carven show will be soon followed by the points of view of designers (Charlie le Mindu, Manish Arora...) and store owners (Armand Hadida from L'Eclaireur, Romain Brau from RA and Maria Louisa).
Production : Rafael Jimenez, Super 8 & artdicted agency
Topic & interviews : David Herman
Directors : Astrid de Cazalet & Richard Mothes
Music : Rikslyd
Thursday, 29 September 2011
NJ :SS-12 BY NICHOLAS JUILITTA, TEXT STEFANIA SEONI , PHOTOS STEFANO LIBERTINI
Dear Diane, dear shaded viewers,
NJ: SS-12 is the second collection presented by Nicholas Juilitta .
The approach begins with the research, Nicholas tends to get influenced by the properties and details of each material, every piece is reproduced in limited edition thanks to a paterniship with the best italian textile companies.
A very poetic installation where the minimal semi couture dresses appear to be the soul of the tree. Shapes are basic and primary , fitted with superb craftsmanship: the leather is cutted , burned and pierced. Like a sculptor Nicholas reassembles useless fur and turns it into an exclusive coat.
Fine fabrics are corroded by chemicals. The eternal search for beauty beneath the defect , there is freedom behind his experimentation.
Tuesday, 30 June 2009
Ann Demeulemeester photos by Sonny Vandevelde
Dear Shaded Viewers,
Thursday, 10 April 2008
An afternoon chat with Mark Eley of Eley Kishimoto
photo by Miguel Villalobos
Dear Shaded Viewers,
Between planes, his, not mine...I had a chat with Mark Eley of Eley Kishimoto and Cacharel.
ÿ I am currently working on the Music Issue for ZOO Magazine so let's talk about your taste in music, what do you like to listen to? Do you_> listen to music while you work? _
ÿ My music taste is very very wide, I am the kind of person pre CD days that created mix tapes shared with friends and never quite know what or to whom I am listening but knowing exactly every song intimately there after. This version of appreciation as set a standard through the advancement of media it now comes down to my computer and itunes doing exactly the same thing. I have multiple track 1,2, etc with no titles but I guess how far down the track list what they are. Digital Radio, My Space and You tube are playing an ever-increasing role in discovery, I really got into Pandora but unfortunately the license was rebuked. Radio 4, The World Service is always a constant and since living in Paris and purchasing a radio 105.1 seems to have stuck. If I am forced to name artists and a few tracks this is what I can remember and is current: I Crass; Berketex Bribe_Adam and The Ants; Whip My Valise, Dirk Wears White Sox_Frank Zappa; Valley Girl_Lene Lovich; Say When_Starland Vocal Band; Afternoon Delight_Ween; I can't put my finger on it, Chocolate and Cheese_Muse, Supermassive Black Hole, Black Holes and Revelations_Dusty Springfield, The Windmills Of Your Mind, Dusty in Memphis_The Pierces, Track ?_Track 12_Track 12......__Music and spoken word is always around at all times to bring warmth._____>
ÿ Does music have any influence on what you design? __
ÿ Not really it lives side by side sometimes when necessary we bring them together for parties, shows, films and performances etc__>
ÿ Want to talk about Daniel Pemberton that does the music for you? __
ÿ I have two guys and they have been around for years. Firstly there is Jerry_Bouthier of the Boombox fame, I have followed Jerry upon first meeting. We met in Paris 4-5 years ago he looked through my CD file and was impressed understood what eclectic chaos I liked understood it started playing at our parties and launches and making mixed CD's. Everything he collates feels new, nostalgic and you can always dance to it. Jerry last performed at our_Cacharel Soirée last March and as ever delivered to a wide appreciating_audience. _The there is Daniel Pemberton who is the most together young composer I have_ever met, he has forged his path within British Television and I can_guarantee that if you heard is back catalogue there is something that you_will recognize. Celebrity get me out of here, The Edwardian House, The Lads_Army etc... He also composes for films and big budget documentaries when he_is sent out to Prague on many occasions and conducts orchestras and choirs_all very impressive. Daniel has produced the music for our shows and is very good at understanding mood and spirit and up now have compiled tracks but_gel them together with his own instrumentation. We realize that we are not using his talent to the degree that we can but there is always the future. For the moment the ease of our collaboration always is key. __>
Eley Kishimoto collection f/w 2008
ÿ You said that this was the best season for you in every way, what do you think_> made it so? __
ÿ This is the best season in respect of regaining creativity, integrity, beauty in our work that we feel ourselves and the kind reward of this is that the people who have come in contact with the work in the last couple of months have recognized this and have been very encouraging. We have had commercial problems in the past due to an incorrect partner decision in Italy and have been working hard to regain our position that we had prior to this relation. This in fashion is not the easiest of tasks and we still have a long way to go. We surpassed our planned commercial position this seasons with sales and in comparison to before and with our new business coming out of Japan we have much more product available than ever before and it is all doing well being as it is all very new. The reason I think it is the best season is that we have a very positive and motivated spirit in our hearts currently and this automatically is imbued within the product that is produced during this time. When this recognised_by people whom we trust their opinions it is very satisfying and if the bonus of commercial success is achieved it becomes win, win, win. __>
Mark Eley and Wakako Kishimoto in front of their first collection for Cacharel
ÿ How has designing Cacharel changed things for you? __
ÿ Obviously the workload has doubled for both Wakako and myself but a combination of planning and realization of tasks and deadlines in such a structured timeframe we have become more focused and efficient. We have managed to build teams in London and Paris whom we respect and trust and the support they give makes it work. The platform that has been offered to expose our work under another brand is a good test and we both recognise_this as our first job; I even feel that I am participating in an amazing internship. At present we are working harder than what is expected but this is to protect us and also assist Cacharel in the best way we see right. __We are happy that we have this opportunity and it also means there is double/treble the amount of seasonal product available under our creative control which means our creative voice is stretching wider._> _>
ÿ I know you are working on a million projects including Cannes.... can you tell_> me_> a little bit about them? __
ÿ We have the Eastpak collaboration launching later this year with Flash_Print._Two new HAIRYWOODS are being built in London. One in Covent Garden Piazza and another at Somerset House as part of the Skin and Bones exhibition that we are participating in this summer. Ruby Helmets with other motorcycle accessories, Flash again. The House at. Cannes. Extending The House at.. Brand with a new house in Cannes, which we are creating a Flash Tiled swimming pool amongst many other interior design pieces. Kimono project coming from Japan. Producing the most beautifully traditional made Yukatas and accessories to be launched this summer. With this project I desire to handpick a few partners and bring it out of Japan to celebrate this part of our companies culture. The Jeweler, Bag and Small Leather good collection. This is amazing when I see the scale and quality of this work I think that " Wow this is it" it is very competitive._Bearbrick, Flash_Maclaren Baby Buggies, Flash_Calculators, Amanadana_Artist Collaborations, Sophie Calle and Eric Duykaerts___> _>
and Eley Kishimoto calculators
ÿ You sold most of your shares of your company , right? How does that effect the_> way you run the business now?__
ÿ No we are still the Majority owner of our trademark. We have two partners_Mitsui and Mach 55 and have created a new company in Japan ELEY KISHIMOTO_Holdings; we are ELEY KISHIMOTO Apparel in London. We went looking for this kind of business structure after the problems we faced with an Italian License, we recognized that the needed to rebuild trust and operate in a more effective, competitive as well as creative way. We were very lucky as we had assistance from MACH 55 our long term Japanese partner to find 3_potential partners whom wrote business plans for us and we choose Mitsui. _Their role in the three-way relationship is to create a Global long-term strategy that involves marketing, sales, license productivity and professional legal and contractual assistance. MACH 55 is assisting us with press, promotion, market direction and distribution in the Japanese market only. _> _>
Friday, 19 May 2006
Mark Eley does the Gumball, check out all the photos on Flicker on the left hand side of the screen
Dear Shaded Viewers,
If you are like me you got a bit disappointed when suddenly you could not follow Mark Eley's adventure on the Gumball. Last night he posted, so click on the flicker window on the left of your screen for more. On flicker they are in order with text, here I'm just posting like anything goes.
The first image is Yorgo, Mr. Intersection Magazine and Mark Eley's co-pilot for the Gumball 3000 adventure and the last image at the bottom is Mark Eley feeling the effects of the night before while riding on a Tuk Tuk in Bangkok. Click on Flicker and see the rest of the images, in order and with a text.