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Monday, 14 October 2013

CERRE: SPRING 2014 VIDEO FASHION WEEK STYLE.COM

 

- GRIFFIN

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Tuesday, 08 October 2013

Magical mystery tour with Diane & visiting other friends in Paris last month. Text & most photos by Glenn Belverio

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Above: No trip to Paris is complete without Champagne and Diane Pernet at Cafe de Flore on the Rive Gauche.

Dear Shaded Viewers,

Last month I was holidaying in Europe and I spent a glorious week in the City of Light visiting friends. The highlight of my trip was a magical mystery tour with Diane...and then there were all the stolen moments I had with old and new friends, not to mention one or two rencontres érotiques

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 On one particulary muggy yet brilliant afternoon, I walked from the Hôtel de NELL where I was staying to Diane's chic address in the 7th arrond. I passed through the Place de la Concorde, as one does during such a walk, and it was as magical as I remembered it from four years ago.

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 Diane at ASVOFF HQ with her Casablancas and NASA space view looming behind her.....she is looking even younger than when I last saw her: Barcelona, Summer 2010. We caught up on all the news and laughs as I fanned myself with my Amanda Lear Chinese dance fan.

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 Me & Diane's reflection out on her curved street....I brought some Keith Haring old-skool New York City realness back to Diane...

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 We went to an absolutely divoon Japanese restaurant near Diane's apartment...the exquisite courses just kept coming and coming...I think it was an 11-course meal...

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One of the courses involved succulent clams in broth and they were heaven.

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 A couple of days later I met Diane at the wildly popular TUCK SHOP which is co-owned by the divine Puurple Rain....everything is vegetarian, homemade and out of this world....Diane and I both had the stellar zucchini soup...it transported me....and this was the start of our magical mystery tour around Paris....my drug of choice: vegetarian fare (and Champagne).

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Instagram madness at the TUCK SHOP with Diane! Edgar Allen Poe held sway. Funnily, there is an "Edgar Poe" school in Paris...one of Rebecca Voight's kids attends it....she took me to it....and it's right next to a crusty gay bar! Oh, Paris!

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 Rain! She works hard for the money at the TUCK SHOP! Bringing vegetarian delights to the Croque Madame-stifled masses....

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 This is what I'm talkin' about....#TuckShop #YUM

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 After the Tuck Shop, Diane and I made are way over to to the legendary Cafe de Flore to rendezvous with the legendary Lemon (she is seen her perched on the coupe de OJ) and the one-and-only Mayor of the Marais, Akiko Hamaoka. Akiko told me all about her fabulous new job and Lemon went on and on about the new apartment's Olympic-pool-sized bathtub.

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 After I fortified myself with some Moët, Diane, Akiko and I went on a looooong walk, our magical mystery tour up Paris, from Cafe de Flore through Les Halles (where tourist heads were spinning around a la Linda Blair when they spotted Diane) and finally to the Le Marais. Diane said she never walks that far and never walks through Les Halles so it was a rare treat. At one point we passed by the magnificent Tour Saint Jacques, above.

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 Later, we stopped by L'Hotel to pay homage to the great Oscar Wilde. There are varying reports on what his last words were when he died here (it was a dump in 1899, now it's this ridiculously chi-chi boutique hotel): "These curtains and I have been fighting a duel to the death. One of us has got to go."

"Either this wallpaper goes or I go."

And so on.

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 Not sure what this mosaic was but it fit right in with our magical mystery tour.

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Not on the magical mystery tour route, but here's a graffiti-ed squat in Montmartre near where I was staying after I left the Hôtel de NELL. Apparently Bender from Futurama enjoys the same kind of cult success that Jerry Lewis once had in France.

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 Medusa and the angels...

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One on sunny day I had brunch in Le Marais with fashion designer Teddy Parra (above) and his partner, the stage actor Jean-Luc Bertin. Teddy took me on a tour of his charming shop and downstairs atelier.

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 I need this look for my next lunch date with Jax (Joan Collins) in St. Tropez. Teddy also creates wonderful made-to-measure men's suits.

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 Downstairs in Teddy's atelier, I was mad for these crane scissors.

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 While I was with the boys we passed by this pin-up plastered Vespa. Sexy!

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 On one particularly balmy afternoon, my friend Frédéric invited me over for a cocktail on the large terrace of his glamorous penthouse in the 15th arrond. I died when I saw the view. I offered to make us some of my world-famous Belgronis™ but since Frédéric had limited spirit options, we went into War-time rationing mode. We made do with some gin and red vermouth. Since he didn't have a proper cocktail shaker, I had to mix the cocktails in a wine decanter with a swan-like neck. Not easy to get the ice cubes in there! But we ended on a high note by drinking my Belgronis™ from Fréd's Dior crystal tumblers.

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 Frédéric avec Belgroni™ et Tour de Eiffel.

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 Moi soaking up the booze and the sun. Holiday! Celebrate! In ev-ery nation....

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 For the sunset view, one must tolerate these very un-Parisian towers that look like they belong in one of China's ghost cities...

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 And then when you turn your head, you get the most iconic view in the world. I was excited to finally witness the 9pm 5-minute glitter and sparkle light show (cut down from 10 minutes in the interests of energy conservation...)

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One of the other magical things about this trip to Paris turned out to be my ultimate public advertising fantasy: Huge images of the gorgeous and talented Amanda Lear on the street, in the Metro, on buses,...everywhere! This was reason enough for me to leave the world of tacky, ironic and idiotic hipster public ads in NYC and move to Paris.....The ads are for her new show which Gaultier did the costumes for. Unfortunately I was no longer in Paris when the show opened.

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 The many passages in Paris are a delight and I absolutely adore Passage Jouffroy in the 9th. This cane shop is of special interest: handmade canes with exquisitely designed heads in sterling silver and bone. When I'm old enough to pull off the cane look (maybe on my 40th birthday in 5 years?) I definitely plan on buying one here.

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 On my last day in Paris, I had lunch with the delightful Angélique Bosio, director of the terrific documentary on Bruce LaBruce, The Advocate for Fagdom. I (and my alter ego) appear in the film and Angélique interviewed me for it in 2009 when I was staying in an apartment in Pigalle.

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 We lunched at Richer à Paris and I started with the watercress soup which was not only a mesmerizing shade of green but delicious. (I followed this with, if my memory serves me, some rare venison.)

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Another view from Frédéric's terrace...I love the faerie lights.

Thanks for reading.

 

Love,

Glenn Belverio

 

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Thursday, 03 October 2013

1962 TRUFFAUT INTERVIEW OF HITCHCOCK PLAYING NOW ON @PRESENTFUTURE_ #SEEKANDLEARN

 

 

- GRIFFIN

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Friday, 27 September 2013

MARTINA SPETLOVA SS/14 PARIS SHOWROOM SEPT 2ND - OCT 27TH AT THE EVE MEYER GALLERY

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My good friend, London based Czech designer Martina Spetlova will be showing her latest SS/14 collection in Paris at The Eve Meyer Gallery from 27Th September - 2nd October. You might remember Martina from several post I have done in the past two years on her, here, here, and here as well as a Italian Vogue's recent Talent Issue here. Also see the great write up in The Telegraph which calls Martina "the London queen of texture". And for our Russian readers this piece from Wonder Zine. Below find images from Martina's latest collection as well as her SS/14 film directed by Marnie Hollande.

Martina wrote me this about her new film:

"Like the collection itself, the two films (they were two originally for interactive presentation but now they are merged into one) focus on the new textures and patterns I've created. I made headpieces/hoods that create striking and simple imagery for the film. Inspired by vintage Pucci ski mask and more recently Pussy Riot, my hoods reference agitators and provocateurs."

 

Look 1 on-line
Look 3 on-line
Look 4 on-line Look 8 on-lineLook 13 on-lineLook 9 on-lineLook 12 on-lineLook 14 online

Eve Meyer Gallery
11 rue Michel Le Comte
Metro: Rambuteau
75003 Paris
27Th September - 2nd October

Becc Gray
becc@bloodygray.com
Tel: +44 (0) 75 0118 1728

Sales

Tihana Ljubojevic
tihana.l@martinaspetlova.com
Tel: +39 3382 307102


PS - Martina, I am look forward to seeing you and Paddy in Berlin at the end of the month and sorry I was delayed in making the post, been crazy past couple of days and weeks. Good luck in Paris and see you both soon.

- GRIFIFN

 

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Thursday, 26 September 2013

A visit to Susanne Bisovsky's salon in Vienna. Photos & text by Glenn Belverio

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Dear Shaded Viewers,

Two weeks ago, during MQ Vienna Fashion Week, Carole Pope and I chased down shy couturier Susanne Bisovsky after her exhilarating catwalk show. We were over the moon when she and her gregarious partner, Joseph Gerger, invited us for a visit to their salon in the newly trendy 7th district. Tucked away westwards beyond the cobblestoned pedestrian zone of Spittelberg (the "village in the city"), Susanne's salon (and home, as it turns out) inhabits an old silk-fabric factory.

Joseph greeted us on the first floor and took us up in the elevator where, much to our amusement, he pointed out a bit of graffiti that had been inscribed by interior designer and fashion icon Iris Apfel. "She was playfully mimicking the tags left by gypsies," Joseph explained as he pointed to an example of said markings near Apfel's. "The gypsies have codes for certain things, such as which apartments are safe to rob."

The first thing one notices when entering the high-ceilinged rooms where Susanne and Joseph work and live, is the explosion of floral motifs--on upholstery, curtains, clothing, bags and in outsized bouquets of flowers rendered in bright yarn.

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Above: Susanne Bisovsky doesn't like to have her picture taken, but because I am a pushy New Yorker, I talked her into it.

A few things to know about Susanne Bisovsky...

She started out her career in fashion around 1990 when she worked with Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. A few years later, she was collaborating with fellow Austrian Helmut Lang. That's when she invented the process of creating lace dresses from latex which featured largely in Lang's collections (1995's "Dress of the Year"). It should be noted that Helmut Lang started out designing clothes that were traditionally Austrian, back in the 1980s--an aesthetic that has always informed Bisovsky's designs.

In the early 2000s, Lang wanted Bisovsky to move to New York and continue to work with him there.  But the two designers were moving in completely different directions at that point. "I wasn't interested in New York," Bisovsky tells us. "Or the whole fashion game." Instead, she invented the concept of the "everlasting collection"--an evergreen line of clothing that is handmade to suit particular clients' taste.

Susanne Bisovsky does not advertise and only stages runway shows according to her moods. But clients, mainy Austrian but also others from around the world, know how to find her. They come in, peruse the couture pieces and the treasure-trove of fabrics and trimmings that Bisovsky has collected from around the world. Measurements are taken, choices are made.

Every Friday, Susanne and Joseph hold a couture salon where clients drop by and a model parades a selection of looks. Very 1950s, very intimate. If a client wants a version of a couture piece, Susanne can reproduce it about 80% to the original, depending on the availability of materials. Her vintage fabrics are culled from flea markets and eBay, or spring from the suitcases of globe-trotting friends. 

While enchantingly old-school, Susanne's process (she calls it "slow fashion") goes beyond a '50s couture mentality--it's a new frame of reference with up-to-date technology and a multi-universal mix of cultures and history. At the end of the day, she's more of a fine artist than a fashion designer.

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 Susanne's big book documents her journey through design.

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 Each photo--such as this Frida Kahlo doppelganger in a Mexican-flavored ensemble--is lovingly bordered with intricate trim.

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Susanne and Joseph are obsessive collectors. I love these grained-wood candy & nut dishes.

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Carole models one of Susanne's hats.

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Buttons and badges and brooches and bricolage.

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Susanne shows off one of her pleated dresses.

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This fabric from China was dyed with pig's blood.

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Joseph is a shoe designer and he showed us some of the designs he worked on for Susanne's collections.

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 On the chair is a rather magnificent mantilla that one of Susanne and Joseph's friends brought back from Spain. Susanee thought it too special to cut up and turn into a dress so she is archiving it. Here she is holding up a shawl. I think it's from Poland? Suzy Menkes wrote about the mantilla in her wonderful piece about Susanne and Vienna fashion which appeared in the New York Times a few months ago.

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 And now, let's take a tour of the kitchen...

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Have you ever seen so many cookie tins?

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Of course many interior magazines have done stories on Susanne and Josph's home but wouldn't this have been a perfect feature for the now-defunct NEST?

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Oh, so lovely. The one on the upper right features the Karlskirche in Vienna (I visited it on my first trip to Vienna back in 2002). Constructed between 1715 and 1737, it was erected in honor of Karl Borromeo who was the patron saint that led the fight against the plague epidemic in 1713.

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Even the bathroom is resplendent in floral- and religous-motif tins.

I hope you enjoyed this visit.

Love,

Glenn Belverio

 

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Tuesday, 24 September 2013

ALBERT AND DAVID MAYSLES 1974 CHRISTO'S VALLEY CURTAIN - DOC NOW PLAYING AT @PRESENTFUTURE_ #SEEKANDLEARN

 

 

 

http://www.mayslesfilms.com/films/

 

For more docs, shorts, full flims, and trailers as well as original content follow PRESENT FUTURE FILMS on twitter @presentfuture_

 

 

- GRIFFIN

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Sunday, 22 September 2013

STYLE EXILES : GAZELLE PAULO

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Gazelle Paulo is a downtown NY style icon who blogs correctly @ Freak Chic  https://www.facebook.com/freakchicbygazeLLe and publishes & edits his own magazine @ Gazelle Land  https://www.facebook.com/gazelland.magazine. Often collaborating with artist & designer Scooter LaForge, Gazelle is known for always making a visual statement and his own scene. He is the first subject I will introduce you to in a new series of portraits I'm shooting called STYLE EXILES exclusively for Shaded. - WC

Styling by Gazelle Paulo & Scooter LaForge. Photographs by Walt Cessna NYC 13

http://www.waltcessna.tumblr.com

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Friday, 20 September 2013

The Shit by Bonnie Strange at MQ Vienna Fashion Week 2013. By Glenn Belverio

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Dear Shaded Viewers,

The scheiße really hit the fan in Vienna when Berlin it girl Bonnie Strange trotted out her latest collection for her self-congratulatory-named brand, The Shit. Strange, a statuesque Russian, plays all the roles one expects of an it girl: model, photographer, blogger, singer and designer. Her Shit Shop boutique in Berlin is, from what I've heard, wildly popular, as was her Shit Pop-Up Shop at MQ Vienna Fashion Week. It's the mode mood du moment: All the cool kids want to be covered in Shit.

As for this collection, it can be summed up thusly: Victoria's Secret PINK moves to Berlin and becomes a hip junkie. And we're so glad she did, because now she's a lot more fun than her American candy-coated corporate cash-cow counterpart. The show was quite lively--thanks largely to the brilliant soundtrack and also the upbeat energy of the rich Viennese hipsters in attendance, who somehow manage to be slightly less annoying than the American species. At least there are less unruly beards-cum-birds nests.

 

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German Jersey Shore!

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Elvyra Geyer, one of the organizers of the fashion week, and Bonnie Strange in the VIP tent.

Thanks for reading.

Later,

Glenn Belverio

 

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Thursday, 19 September 2013

BRESSON ON FILM - INTERVIEW AND MORE

 

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- GRIFFIN

07:23 AM | Permalink | Comments (1)

Wednesday, 18 September 2013

PICASSO OPENING AT KULTURFORUM, BERLIN

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Last Thursday I was invited by my good friend Berlin based archaeologist Tobi Etessami to attend the opening of a new Picasso exhibition PABLO PICASSO FRAUEN - STIERE - ALT MEISTER at KULTURFORUM. Below find some images and highlights from the exhibition and more.

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If you are in Berlin stop by to see the Picasso exhibition as well as the KULTURFORUM permanent collection.


Thank you to the lovely Eva Rave as well.

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Picasso interpertation of Cranach

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Picasso and I

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PABLO PICASSO FRAUEN - STIERE - ALT MEISTER
13 September 2013 – 12 January 2014

KULTURFORUM

Matthäikirchplatz, 10785 Berlin

In other Picasso news, one of his grandchildren Diana Widmaier Picasso, has undertaken the massive task of cataloging Picasso's sculptural work. Here is an interview with Diana from WSJ.


More Picasso...

 



 

Also a great Picasso family tree infographic with portraits of his muses.

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- GRIFFIN

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