Saturday, 30 August 2014
POPARCHIVES DIARIES BY DUSTIN PITTMAN - CLAYTON PATTERSON - THE GOD OF THE LES
FROM THE PHOTOGRAPHIC DIARIES OF PHOTOGRAPHER Dustin Pittman
CLAYTON PATTERSON "THE $16 BURGER SHOW" WITH ELSA RENSAA & THE Art Collective BAND - DAMEHT
Longtime Lower East Side archivist, artist, photographer, Clayton Patterson has announced that he is leaving New York for a small village in the Austrian alps.“The $16 Burger show,” a pop-up exhibit featuring Patterson’s work, along with his life partner Elsa Rensaa’s original artwork, was held in a gallery space formerly known as "PopBurger" in the Meatpacking District. It has been christened “Galerie ABP,” short for Au Bon Punk. Patterson, calls the neighborhood “the Dead Meat District.” Dameht, a band which is part of an art collective in NYC, helped stage the exhibit, along with Kate Litvinov.
I believe in Clayton and everything that he represents. I, to, have witnessed the distruction of the LES and other Historic Manhattan Neighborhoods only to be priced out with Corporate Drug Stores, Banks, Expensive Coffee Shops, Cellphone Popup Stores and other Mall Related storefront trash. Mars Bar=GONE CBGB'S=GONE Max Fish=GONE Brownies=GONE.
The show was a celebration of young and old mingling together creating equal good vibes and loving spirits. Clayton Patterson is the GOD OF THE LES.
GOD IS GOOD....... Photography and Text by Dustin Pittman
Clayton Patterson & Partner Elsa Rensaa Photographed by Dustin Pittman
The Art Collective Band DAMEHT Photographed by Dustin Pittman
LES Artists "Thumbs Up" In Front of Clayton Patterson's Neon Photographed by Dustin Pittman
Clayton Patterson's Jacket Designs Photographed by Dustin Pittman
One Of My Favorite Artists Favelapunk @ Clayton's Opening Photographed by Dustin Pittman
The LES Artists of Tomorrow Photographed by Dustin Pittman
Street Fashion @ Clayton Patterson's Show Photographed by Dustin Pittman
Clayton Patterson with Close Friends Photographed by Dustin Pittman
DAMEHT Performs @ Clayton Patterson's After Party Photographed by Dustin Pittman
DAMEHT Performs @ Clayton Patterson's After Party Photographed by Dustin Pittman
Goodbye Clayton and Elsa. We Will Miss You Photographed by Dustin Pittman
“The $16 Burger Show: Clayton Patterson with Elsa Rensaa”, 58-60 9th Ave. Exhibition until May 14.
Monday, 09 December 2013
MUTATE AW13 / DIEGO ZÚÑIGA
[ M U T A T E . AW13 ]
The homonymous firm of the Mexican designer returns this Fall/Winter 2013 with MUTATE. The starting point is the beetle, an insect that throughout history has been an inspiration for industrial design, architecture and the military world. With eight all-black looks, MUTATE is characterized by oversize pieces, tailored quality and sporty touches. It surprises us with dynamic and original cuts, mesh details, and for the first time in the brand’s history there is a couple of functional accessories (cap and backpack) to create an outfit that reflects the concept perfectly. The collection? Wide-cut blazers with relaxed lapels, sweaters with wide sleeves, pants with big cargo-like pockets, and short wide pants. The textures reflect inspiration and are mixed with the designer’s characteristic black-over-black detail. The fortress, intellect, routine, and strength of the contemporary man is what emerges from this proposal from Zúñiga.
Make up:Ossiel Ramos
Model: Model: Frederik Tölke @ BANG! MANAGEMENT
Shoes: @ Feminine and Masculine
Tuesday, 24 September 2013
ALBERT AND DAVID MAYSLES 1974 CHRISTO'S VALLEY CURTAIN - DOC NOW PLAYING AT @PRESENTFUTURE_ #SEEKANDLEARN
Sunday, 22 September 2013
STYLE EXILES : GAZELLE PAULO
Gazelle Paulo is a downtown NY style icon who blogs correctly @ Freak Chic https://www.facebook.com/freakchicbygazeLLe and publishes & edits his own magazine @ Gazelle Land https://www.facebook.com/gazelland.magazine. Often collaborating with artist & designer Scooter LaForge, Gazelle is known for always making a visual statement and his own scene. He is the first subject I will introduce you to in a new series of portraits I'm shooting called STYLE EXILES exclusively for Shaded. - WC
Styling by Gazelle Paulo & Scooter LaForge. Photographs by Walt Cessna NYC 13
SLIGHTLY SCARY CREATURES & SUPER FREAKS
Saturday, 21 September 2013
AIGNER BACKSTAGE BY DOMENICO PRINCIPATO
Dear Diane, dear shaded viewers,
Aigner's Spring/Summer 2014 Womanswear fashion show was yesterday.
Backstage my eye focused on: elegant shapes and unexpected cuts, delicious grading tones from blue to green and bold and valuable accessories. A fierce and sexy collection for a colorful spring.
Model: Maite Yanes
Thursday, 19 September 2013
BRESSON ON FILM - INTERVIEW AND MORE
Wednesday, 18 September 2013
PICASSO OPENING AT KULTURFORUM, BERLIN
Last Thursday I was invited by my good friend Berlin based archaeologist Tobi Etessami to attend the opening of a new Picasso exhibition PABLO PICASSO FRAUEN - STIERE - ALT MEISTER at KULTURFORUM. Below find some images and highlights from the exhibition and more.
If you are in Berlin stop by to see the Picasso exhibition as well as the KULTURFORUM permanent collection.
Thank you to the lovely Eva Rave as well.
Picasso interpertation of Cranach
Picasso and I
PABLO PICASSO FRAUEN - STIERE - ALT MEISTER
13 September 2013 – 12 January 2014
Matthäikirchplatz, 10785 Berlin
Also a great Picasso family tree infographic with portraits of his muses.
Monday, 09 September 2013
Dziga Vertov's 1924 - Soviet Toys - Animated Soviet Propaganda film @presentfuture_
Dziga Vertov's 1924 - Soviet Toys - Animated Soviet Propaganda film http://t.co/XJTRfNK8fa— PRESENT FUTURE FILMS (@presentfuture_) September 9, 2013
Wednesday, 04 September 2013
SELLING DREAMS & AUSTRALIAN GLAMOUR on show at NSW State Library, Sydney
Dear Diane, Dear Shaded Viewers,
I've been flying between Auckland and Sydney for a research trip and about to return to good old Europe in a couple of days. I was very lucky to have had a wonderful personal tour of 2 fascinating exhibitions: Australian Glamour, curated by State Library fashion historian Margot Riley (who studied as a dress historian with Valerie Steele and kindly took me on the tour) and Selling Dreams, One Hundred Years of fashion Photography curated by Victoria and Albert Museum.
Tim Walker, Lily Cole and Giant Camera (2004) from Selling Dreams.
The exhibition Selling Dreams begins in the 1900’s, with a focus on the emergence of Vogue as a Magazine in NY, 1909. The first images of the exhibition are from Edward Steichen of Paul Poire’s designs for Art and decoration in Paris, these were seen as "the first serious fashion photographs ever made". Steiten’s images being a benchmark, with the rest of the exhibition leading off from Steiten’s work. A major focus of the exhibition is the impact of magazine publishing and how it influenced the development of fashion photography.
To contextualise events, Margot explained that around 1907 Australia was desperate for fashion information, Australia being the biggest consumer of magazines, ever since 18th century, Australian’s have always been huge readers of magazines, where fashion information was communicated, with it taking till 1959 for the first Australian Vogue to be published.
Margot:" Mainbocher Corset by Horst P. Horst, American Vogue (1939), suggesting the silhouette was changing, with this image predating Dior’s New Look".
Post War, American Vogue cover (1945), photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, featuring the so called “ Mannequins “ who paraded on the catwalks (with models being photographic models).
A strong part of the exhibition was SHOOTING IN THE CITY (around 1950's), where you could see the photographers taking on a more spontaneous, photojournalistic approach, of particular interest was photographer Genevuieve Naylor, (above image: Fashion by Izod, Wald and Hoch, New York American Harpers Bazar, 1947) Naylor like Lee Miller began her career as a news photographer.
Helmut Newton (1971).
Margot shared insight into the early career of Helmut Newton, who was discovered in his studio in Flinders Lane, Melbourne, by Rosemary Cooper from British Vogue.
To begin from the beginning about how Australian Vogue was born, including Helmuts early days at the magazine and the exhibition Australian Glamour I'll give Margot (pictured below) the spotlight: (please read on over leaf)
Margot: Mary Hordon, the fashion editor of woman’s weekly, Australia, went to paris in 1946 She was accustomed to wearing couture herself, and went to all the fashion shows and selected a number of items that would come to Australia, they also brough out 6 “French Mannequins” (women from the Cabine, who’d worked for the different Fashion Houses) to show Australian Women how to wear the garments and be glamorous. The trip was co-ordinted by a woman called Madame Chambrelant who was the head of House of Worth. They came to Australia on the Constellation, taking 6 days, bringing clothing and put on public fashion parades all over Australia at David Jones department store, in Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide, Tasmania and Brisbane. This triggered a wave of people wanting to go shopping, originally they didn’t have the licenses to produce the clothes in Australia, but then by 1947, they were granted the licenses with the “model gowns" which were sent to David Jones to copy and sell.
This pushed the whole fashion industry in Australia, going on between 1946-49. In 1950 The british wanted to get into the act, as they were concerned with Australians being obsessed with French fashion and Rosemary Cooper from British Vogue organizes similar events with British fashion and fashion models.
Once Rosemary comes out to Australia, she gets the idea that there should be an Australian Vogue and organizes British Vogue to produce a supplement, and eventually in 1956, they produce the first Australian supplement, which would be delivered 2 times a year to British Vogue subscribers, with Australian fashion.
Rosemary Cooper then gets Helmut Newton to take the photos for the first Vogue Australian supplement in 1956, it was after that supliment, Helmet newton gets a contract with UK vogue in 1957, when he moves to London, but he ended up not liking it due to their conservatism and came back to Australia. 1958-1961 he was shooting in Australia, which coincided with the first full issue of Australian Vogue, which was issued in Spring Summer 1959. 1961, Helmut was given a conrtact with Paris Vogue and he left Australia permanently.
MODEL, PHOTOGRAPHER, MAGAZINE
Maide Hann in Henderson’s Hats advertisement (1946), photo by Rob Hillier from the exhibition Australian Glamour. Margot: "The hat during the post war period was everything, clothes after 42 were rationed, but hats weren’t!"
Alex: Could you tell me a bit about the exhibition and the Archives of the NSW State Library:
Margot: The library has been around since the beginning of the 19th century, there is a large collection of fashion magazines that have been published in Australia, which are all held in the archives of Library of NSW. Our role is to document life in NSW, so what people wore is an incredibly important part of that. I think the thing about magazines too is that often things will go into a magazine that don’t get published anywhere else, from our point of view as a collecting organization, magazines are incredibly important.
Beyond the printed book collection we also have material collection or ephemera, manuscripts and paintings. Within our archival collections our original materials we have millions of photographs, particularly the archive of 1940’s Sydney fashion photographer known as Rob Hellier, this exhibition is profiling his career.
We also have the collection of magie taborer, who’s work is also presented in this exhibition.
The exhibiton focusses on the work of Rob helier with a case study on the model Magie taborer. Rob's style was more Reportage rather than an illusion. Helier was very entrepreuneral and great networker, he made movies, produced books always getting his name out there, Robb was a multi-tasker, taking one photo and using it 3 or 4 different ways.
Australians travelled a lot at the time, if you had the money, you’d take a trip back to London, the first thing many Australian’s did was go via Paris and you’d arrive in England, looking like the last word and when you read the magazines and newspapers, so much is coming back saying how stylish Australian women are. Because of the island and the isolation, there was an over compensation to be fashionable, cutting edge, stylish and take risks in what you wore.
Brochure, Maggie Tabberer models Autumn/Winter 1960 Cardin-Lucas designs, (1959)
photographed by Helmut Newton for Lucas & Co (detail)
Alex: I'm very curious about Magie tabberer, could you expand on her career?
Margot: Magie was a house wife living in the Adelaide suburbs in 1957 and Mother of 2 children, Magie was a size 14 with fantastic legs and a beautiful face, She did modelling school and David Jones fashion parades. The wool board was one of the biggest advertisers at the time and they discovered her, then introducing Maggie to Helmut, at flinders lane. Helmut gave her the clothes and the shoot was published in Australian vogue. Magie projected mood and became more skillfull in front of the camera. Hemut went for magie as she was brunette, and so many Models were blonde, earthy European, not the girl next door, it was the time of sofia loren and he appreciated her Europeaness.