Monday, 09 December 2013
MUTATE AW13 / DIEGO ZÚÑIGA
[ M U T A T E . AW13 ]
The homonymous firm of the Mexican designer returns this Fall/Winter 2013 with MUTATE. The starting point is the beetle, an insect that throughout history has been an inspiration for industrial design, architecture and the military world. With eight all-black looks, MUTATE is characterized by oversize pieces, tailored quality and sporty touches. It surprises us with dynamic and original cuts, mesh details, and for the first time in the brand’s history there is a couple of functional accessories (cap and backpack) to create an outfit that reflects the concept perfectly. The collection? Wide-cut blazers with relaxed lapels, sweaters with wide sleeves, pants with big cargo-like pockets, and short wide pants. The textures reflect inspiration and are mixed with the designer’s characteristic black-over-black detail. The fortress, intellect, routine, and strength of the contemporary man is what emerges from this proposal from Zúñiga.
Make up:Ossiel Ramos
Model: Model: Frederik Tölke @ BANG! MANAGEMENT
Shoes: @ Feminine and Masculine
Sunday, 22 September 2013
Sadie Williams, Alan Taylor and more brightness - by Silvia Bombardini
Dear Shaded Viewers and Diane,
A recent graduate from her Central Saint Martins MA in fashion textiles, Sadie Williams already has her own window at Selfridges, as part of their ever so astute selection of Britain brightest rising stars. And hers is bright indeed. In our London weather so dreary and wet, her floor-length gowns refract and glow. Pillars of light of an almost papal grandeur, they're glittery statement of a luminous female authority. So different from the flimsy, slippery womenswear we've somehow got used to, Sadie's work gives us dramatically dropped waists in sparkling racing hues. She was inspired by Japanese bikers gangs and brought to the London scene their flamboyant stance, their speeding hearts and wild and warm, fast summer nights. Her textiles were achieved with multiple treatments of sublimation, print design, and through the use of a heat press "that squishes everything together" - for an already iconic result. Just last week Susie Bubble was wearing one of her Selfridges-sold, 60s-shaped minidresses, and new prestigious collaborations already seem on their way.
On a side note, I think I could mention maybe once more how very fond I am of Selfridges' Bright Young Things initiative. Their Concept Store at the Oxford Street shop is just like an inflatable cabinet of wonders. And this year they're also launching a series of interactive events you really wouldn't want to miss out on. Earlier this month I went to see Alan Taylor chatting with Steve Salter of Style Savage about his newest collection and the influence of Francis Bacon. Here's a clip, in case you're curious:
Monday, 22 July 2013
Asia Argento & the opening party for the Ermanno Scervino boutique in Rome during Alta Roma. Photos & text by Glenn Belverio
Tiptoe Through the Tulips, Italiano-style: Asia Argento brought her ukulele to the Ermanno Scervino cocktail and belted out an impromptu ditty from her new--and first--album, "Total Entropy."
Dear Shaded Viewers,
During Alta Roma in Rome, I attended the opening cocktail for Ermanno Scervino's new fashion boutique on the via del Babuino (across the street from Tiffany's). The exciting news is that Ermanno Scervino's new "protaganist", the brand's campaign model, is none other than Asia Argento.
I adore Asia Argento and, as many of you know, I am a huge fan of her father's films. In 2005, I interviewed Dario Argento at his office in Rome, at the invitation of the Turino Film Commission and Turino Tourism. (It wasn't easy to convince them at first, as they didn't want to promote Rome. So, they flew me to Turin after my interview where I promoted the city's tourism with gusto by making a beeline to their rather excellent gay sauna.)
Asia burst onto the world stage, or at least how I remember it, in Dario Argento's controversial film "The Stendhal Syndrome" (1996) in which the then 20-year-old Asia portrayed a rape victim who takes on her attacker's dark persona. (She did start acting at age 9 and appeared in her father's film "Trauma" in 1993. But I don't think I became aware of her until I saw "Stendhal Syndrome.") She's had a colorful career since then, fraught with drama and gossip to be sure, including her delightful star turn as Madame du Barry in "Marie Antoinette." (And I'll always treasure the scene in her film "Scarlet Diva" when she plunges into a mosh pit while pregnant.) Asia is currently married to film director Michele Civetta.
Last month, Italian Vogue reported on Asia's new career as the muse for Ermanno Scervino. “As she has cinema in her blood, no-one knows the world of cinema like Asia does. I love her evolution: every small thing of her expresses a charm that is in a continuous evolution. When I imagined a face for the new woman by Ermanno Scervino, I immediately thought about her” the designer said.
“Together with Asia," Scervino contintues, "we wanted to tell a new style, that looks towards the past but is immediately projected towards the future. Never be nostalgic."
The video for the campaign, featuring Asia describing her childhood, is pretty great and can be seen here on the Italian Vogue site.
Before Asia arrived at the party in a burst of glorious punk-rock impudence, as if she had been shot from a cannon, the soiree was a rather soigné affair. Men in expensive suits and women dressed as if they had raided Halson's closet floated in circles around the crowded room through champagne bubbles and a DJ set of fabulously louche '70s disco. Such a refreshing change from the typical New York fashion party, where douchey faux-hemian "DJs" try and fail to spin their way out of a wet reclaimed hemp paper bag...and everyone is dressed like they're competing in a Chloe Sevigny costume challenge.
Darling, I ONLY wear endangered species! (Just kidding! These pieces are made from beaver--or is it pony hair?--printed to look like leopard. I need that coat for my next skiing jaunt in Gstaad.)
I think I found a new chair for my apartment! Nunzia snapped this photo of me chilling out in the shop's lingerie salon.
I was mad for the chandelier. I wonder if I can snag a smaller version for my Mao Room?
Double trouble with Nunzia Garoffolo.
Possessed by Andy.
Fashion designer Paola Balzano, Nunzia and turban designer Genevieve Xhaet.
Nunzia and Alta Roma organizer Conseulo Aranyi, who was feeling the effects of the hectic zaniness of organzing a major fashion event.
And here's Asia in the brand's campaign. The photos were shot by Francesco Carrozzini in an old delabré Milanese theatre, chosen for its film-noir ambiance.
Asia arrives at the party with her entourage...
...and about 100 members of Rome's paparazzi. A real La Dolce Vita moment. The photogs are snapping Asia's reflection in the mirror behind the DJ booth.
Asia warming up on her ukulele before she gave an impromptu performance to promote her album.
I quite like this song and video ("Sexodrome") from "Total Entropy":
Not sure who in the crowd changed her demeanor. Cue Sonic Youth's "She's in a Bad Mood."
Love this shot.
Nunzia in a Fellini-esque postmodern mood right before she made her escape from the party.
Thanks for reading.
Ciao, baci, prego,
Tuesday, 25 June 2013
VACCINEAs someone who has been fan, proponent and originator of independent publishing in the past (The Key, STOP & CSNA) I'm very excited to announce the launch of my on-line & limited print edition art & literary journal VACCINE. VACCINE will feature a varied assortment of photography, multi-media art & collage, graffiti, short stories & broken werd. The extremely talented & visionary art director Frank Gargiulo will be in charge of the design and visual presentation. The early roster of contributors is nothing short of stellar, including Scooter LaForge, Dietmar Busse, Gazelle Paulo, Bubi Canal, Joel Handorff, HOMO-RIOT, Walt Cassidy, Paul Wirhun, Ethan Shoshan, Honey McMoney, Brett Lindell, Benjamin Fredrickson, Nicholas Gorham, Jonathan Daniel Federico, Chick Byrne, Marne Lucas, Richard Schemmer, Allen Todd Yaeger, Derek Dewitt, Natasha Gornik, Max Steele, Maria Pineres, Bj Dini, Muffinhead, Lee Baxter, Dick Mitchell, Ben Copperwheat, Clint Catalyst, Jeff Silverman, Simon Crawford, Shain Kish, Michael Alago & more to come. I am currently accepting submissions for the first edition which will debut in December 2013 at firstname.lastname@example.org.
No censors. No limits. Ain't no stopping us now. As always, come correct or don't come at all.
Original VACCINE Logo by Mike Lohr @ semiliquid.net
Sunday, 26 May 2013
THE CAPSULE COLLECTION OF ARNOLDO BATTOIS THAT CELEBRATES THE OPENING OF THEIR SECOND FLAGSHIP STORE IN VENICE TEXT BY NUNZIA GAROFFOLO
Arnoldo Battois, renowned brand of accessories established by Silvano Arnoldo and Massimiliano Battois, recently opened its second flagship store in Venice ( which is the native city of the designers as well as a source of their inspiration). Campo San Maurizio, will showcase their bags and a capsule collection of womenswear and accessories. The leitmotiv of the brand is lightness and movement.
Thursday, 21 February 2013
Cairo's Fashion Nights + interview with Pashion magazine editor & CFN organizer, Susan Sabet. By Glenn Belverio
Dear Shaded Viewers,
I'm back in New York after 11 glorious days in Egypt. At the suggestion of my friend Susan Sabet, the editor-in-chief of Pashion magazine whom I met during Alta Roma in 2009, I traveled to Cairo to attend the 2nd edition of her event Cairo's Fashion Nights. This edition was held at the upscale First Mall, which is next door to the Four Seasons at the First Residence where I stayed for 3 luxurious nights.
I really enjoyed meeting the young and established Egyptian designers; seeing their work and making new friends, and having long conversations with Cairenes who work in fashion, interior design and PR. We discussed everything from Cairo's salad days of the Roaring Forties to today's state of affairs. Besides fashion, I learned a lot about the nuances of Egyptian life, religion, class and, of course, the current political situation. While people were having a great time relaxing with wine and fashion, more than a few could not refrain from filling me in on the current political troubles. It was quite illuminating, and a refreshing change from the specious, sloppy and agenda-ridden reporting on Egypt by the Western media.
While fashion might seem frivolous to some in light of Egypt's current situation--the country's journey on the long, rough road to democracy--many see it as another example of the vitality and resilience of the Egyptian spirit. The culture of fashion emphasizes the importance of the larger role that creativity plays during times of civil unrest.
Glenn Belverio: As you know, American Vogue launched Fashion’s Night Out in the fall of 2009 in response to the economic downturn that started with the market crash of 2008. Anna Wintour wanted to inspire people to go shopping again. But lately, many fashion critics, particularly Cathy Horyn, have rightly complained that there’s no need for the event anymore, which is held in many cities from Milan to Paris. I think the New York version has become a pointless free-for-all for bridge and tunnel hoi polloi who would otherwise never be invited to a fashion event. Plus, the American economy is up and people are shopping again. Now Fashion’s Night Out just feels like a Vogue branding ego fest.
However, in Cairo it’s a completely different situation. Egypt is in the middle of a political transition, to put it mildly. Amidst tumult and uncertainty, Egyptians are just trying to get on with their lives. What were some of your hopes and goals for this edition of Cairo’s Fashion Nights?
Susan Sabet: Based on the initial idea of Vogue's Fashion’s Night Out to get the retail business up again, we launched Cairo’s Fashion Nights in November 2011, ten months after the Egyptian revolution. Another year down the road, retail is still not what it used to be in the pre-Revolution era, and people need encouragement and extra enticement to go down to basically resume their old way of life. The full house we had I think is proof we succeeded. But Cairo’s Fashion Nights is also aiming to promote the many young Egyptian designers that have started to appear on the scene in the past couple of years. Many of them do not have the means to open up a store or find it difficult to find local key retailers that specialize in high-end international brands to display their products. So an event like this is the perfect platform to get their name and product out there.
GB: You have a delightfully refreshing gung-ho spirit when it comes to organizing CFN. You were running around the First Mall, dressed for the event, but schlepping rolls of backdrop paper, tripods, glue guns and mannequins up and down the escalators, like a determined, hands-on producer putting on a play at a renegade theater. “The show must go on!” What was your creative process for launching this event and how did you decide who would be hawking their wares and services at it?
SS: Unfortunately there are always last-minute hang-ups and unexpected bad surprises, so I prefer to take care of the final details myself. CFN’s first edition was held in the Zamalek district, home to many high-end retailers and local designer ateliers. This set-up had the charm of moving from store to store, even if more difficult, as we do not have shopping avenues as in Europe or NY and stores are scattered. Hence, we had to do the event over two nights to give shoppers the opportunity to be able to visit all the participating stores. Due to the political turmoil in the past months, I felt it is easier and more encouraging to find a compact outlet that boasts high end retailers as well as offers space for visiting designers. So the First Mall Cairo was the obvious choice and right partner to go with.
GB: What are some of the things you think Egyptian designers can contribute to the worldwide fashion industry? How is their viewpoint different from, say, designers in New York or Paris?
SS: Young Egyptian designers like most young designers in the world aspire to show one day in NY, Paris, Milan or London. They are exposed to international fashion through local retail, media and travel and follow the international trends. I think that the ones that are using traditional local fabrics and handcrafts, or take inspiration by our culture and know how to adapt it to the current trends, are the ones that will succeed to stand out, provided of course they get the chance to show abroad and can deliver the quality needed to compete.
GB: What do you think the future holds for Egypt’s fashion industry under the current political administration? How do you think it can adapt to the changes in the economy and society?
SS: Egypt’s fashion and textile industry has always been big. The current situation has maybe slowed down many of the businesses but it is temporary, I believe. After all, we are 91 million people that need to be dressed.
GB: What advice would you give to young, emerging Egyptian designers for making it in the local and global markets?
SS: Whether it is to succeed in the local or global market your product has to be in demand and of high quality. I tell them to go and visit trade shows in Paris or Milan to see what the designers show, what sells, what the prices are and where they can position themselves to find maybe a niche they can fill to lure buyers with something special.
The fashions of Deana Shaaban
I chatted a while with designer Amina Khalil who founded her brand, Amina K, in 2009. Amina studied fashion design and marketing in London and it shows because she comes off as very savvy and versed in the international fashion scene. The brand is inspired by and dedicated to Egypt: Amina almost exclusively uses Egyptian resources, fabric and workmanship. (However, the much-touted Egyptian cotton is often hard to find. The global demand is so high--all those high-thread count Egyptian-cotton sheets!-- that most of it gets exported.) Her limited-edition pieces put a modern Western spin on traditional Egyptian silhouttes. I really like how she does the layered look...all those scarves and other knit pieces are so chic for hanging out in the desert.
Layered look from Amina K
Designer Deana Shaaban and CFN reveler. Hedda Hopper is looking up from Hades, green with envy over those hats....
Jewelry designer Azza Fahmy, Indjy Hosny and Rawah Badra. I visited Azza's workshop outside of Cairo during my trip--story on that to come, stay tuned.
Rana Kandil, who does PR for Azza Fahmy, models one of Azza's pieces.
"I'm just crazy about Tiffany's! Nothing very bad could happen to you there." Especially when they're serving Egyptian sparkling wine, which was pretty top-drawer. At one point, the young waiter shot a cork cannon-like across the small boutique and it almost split a yellow diamond like an atom, and we all laughed and drank 8 more glasses and thought it divinely tres fou. Hibba Bilal, my host and the Director of PR at the Four Seasons at the First Residence, and I chatted at length about Egyptian society, pop culture, art and politics.
Hibba, me and Ricky Martin outside the Bulgari boutique. We went in and ogled the bijoux for a few moments.
In the middle of the evening, there was a catwalk show of Egyptian designers. Here's a look from Nevine Altmann.
A look from Hany El Behairy
My new Egyptian friends! Jewelry designers Ahmed Sabry and Daki Marouf of the brand Sabry Marouf. I will be doing a longer post on their work next week, but here are a couple of their very cool pieces:
Sabry Marouf necklace accented with bullets. Radical chic, darlings! The Revolution will be gilded.
Sabry Marouf Ankh necklace. "The Love Machine", Egyptian-style!
Me modeling a Sabry Marouf silver-plated metal tie. I like how it looks with my pink Paul Smith shirt. Fashion! Turn to the left.
Shahira Fahmy, Susan and Laila Al Far. I had a long chat with Shahira. She is a real renaissance woman. She used to design for the brand Mix' n Match and now does creative direction for them. She also designs interiors and did the suites at the Four Seasons at the First Residence and other hotels in Egypt. She really filled me in on Egypt's political situation, it was very informative.
The night more or less climaxed with a rather giddy French wine and dance party at a club in the First Mall called 35. The party was hosted by the French Embassy and the theme was "The Best of French Fashion in Cairo" and there were new looks there from Nina Ricci, Lanvin, Celine and Kenzo. Pictured above is Camilia Galey (left), the wife of the French Ambassador to Egypt, Nicolas Galey. Mrs. Galey really tore up the dance floor and was the life of the party! I had pizza with her and her husband, cousins and friends afterwards and it was a hoot. She is from Algeria and we talked at length about the Middle East and New York.
Thanks for reading and please visit Egypt and support Egyptian fashion and tourism! Egypt is safe if you possess common sense and now is the time to visit some of the world's most spectacular sites without having to deal with huge crowds of tourists.
Previously on 'Glenn Belverio in Egypt':
Monday, 24 December 2012
MADS DINESEN OPENING AT XXX BERLIN
Better late then never, right ? I am behind again on posts, sorry.
A photograpic performance by Andrea Splisgar, Mali Lazell and Mads Dinesen.
Installation, photography and soundtrack by Mali Lazell, Frauke Schmidt and Mads Dinesen.
Soundsculpture by Frauke Schmidt and Mads Dinesen.
THE SWAN KILLER
DER MONDANE TIGER with the voice of Andrea Splisgar narrating THE SWAN KILLER from the 'Anthology of black humour' by Andre Breton.
Andrea Splisgar and hans h.
Was great evening. Enjoyed seeing Mads collection for XXX, especially the finely breaded hair veils on the hats.
It was my first time at XXX and the space was great, featuring works of various designers and artist as a small cafe in the back.
Andrea's narration of THE SWAN KILLER from the 'Anthology of black humour by Andre Breton playing inside the wardrobe below, was beautiful and haunting.
WARDROBE JUST IN THE DISTANCE WHERE ANDREAS NARRATION OF BLACK SWAN WAS PLAYING AND ON SALE.
Tim Van Den Oudenhoven, Mads Dinesen, Andres Ernst, Andrea Splisgar, Krista Figacz, Michelle Baards, Yoshihiro Shimomura, Hans H., Maurice Hermes, Me and Filsproduction (sorry any names and face I missed)
If you are in Berlin and have a chance defiantly check out XXX.
Saturday, 22 December 2012
"Echo Beach" and Wies Schulte - Christmas magic at Graanmarkt 13, text by Tanja Beljanski
One of the best luxury goods stores in Belgium - Graanmarkt 13, once again gave us that magical Christmas opportunity to meet the designer behind the label.
On Thursday, December 20th, revealing us its singular universe, INDRESS and its designer Wies Schulte presented the A/W 2012 collection and the new movie "Echo Beach".
Previously shown at Palais de Tokyo in Paris in November this year, and now at Graanmarkt 13, this beautifully mysterious, yet comical film, delicately brings the fantastic and burlesque together.
Who is Esther van Eijndhoven, the "ghost hunter"? And the girl who is following her, Jo, what is she looking for? Who is the "frogman"? What connects them all in a small, foggy, seaside town?
Each season Indress makes a movie to feature its collection. It is Wies Schulte's husband, director Frédéric Guelaff, who is responsible for it. "It is a family business," smiles Wies. "My husband makes the film each season I make the collection. The actors are wearing my clothes. And this young girl Jo, is actually my daughter Renée."
But, these are not fashion movies where aesthetic is dominating the story. After the film "Northern Sky","Echo Beach" is a second episode where we follow the path of the character Esther van Eijndhoven, the "Ghost Hunter", played by Julie Gayet. "Eijndhoven is actually my mother's family name, which gives something more to the story. It was my husband's idea to give that name to the main character," explains Wies. Mysterious young girl, Jo, is played by their 14 years old daughter Renée Guelaff. This beautiful and surprisingly talented girl happens to have not too much interest in acting, but in studying medicine. As I heard from her mother, Renée decided to act in "Echo Beach" after making sure that it will not take much of her time.
Indress is a French fashion label launched 12 years ago. The designer Wies Schulte was born in the Netherlands. At the age of 17 she moved to Belgium. After graduating at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Wies went to Paris and started working for Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. The relationship between the French fashion legend and young Schulte was a bit tensed. "De Castelbajac told me I was not made to work for the others, and that I should work for myself," says Wies. After two years at De Castelbajac, she went on and worked at Kenzo for four years.
In 2001 she created Indress together with Aude Buttazioni, who has since, as Wies says, departed for the other adventures. Started with a single piece, a small cotton bag, presented at Tranoi, and immediately sold in Japan, they went on adding the shoes next season. The shoes were instantly sold in 9 colors! They continued adding another product each season until 2005 when they presented their first complete collection of 25 pieces.
Today Indress offers us thoughtfully designed upscale products, among the others, elegant casual chic silk dresses and precious feather accessories; beautifully and carefully made in France, available in a range of truly distinctive colors.
Indress is sold worldwide in the multi-brand stores, and I wish them honestly to open one of their own - in Paris.
Wednesday, 12 December 2012
paolobongia opens in Beverly Hills
The house of paolobongia has opened its exquisite doors in Beverly Hills and is making everyone on the block drool. paolobongia reveals himself as a multifaceted artist, and his individual designs reflect the different personalities and lifestyle of each woman. From the material, shape and size, to diamond and sapphires, each and every one of his distinct pieces seems to envelope the finger with its delicate beauty. Speaking of beauty, designer/architect Gulla Jonsdottir was brought on to create the look of the space. If anyone knows the sophisticated and luxurious its Jonsdottir, who is behind some of the most sumptuous properties around the globe including; The Thompson Hotel, Double Seven New York, Red O, Hotel La Jolla, Grauman’s Chinese re-vamp and The Roosevelt Hotel to name a few. “You want your space to reflect the brand, and that’s what I wanted to achieve with the design of paolobongia.” To check out the store or see more go to http://www.paolobongia.com
Tuesday, 27 November 2012
LIZ GOLDWYN TALKS ABOUT INSPIRATION BEHIND HER RECENT COLLABORATION WITH MAC COSMETICS